We make luxury accessible for all. We are proud to offer only the finest certified vintage and second-hand fashion accessories from the world's most exclusive fashion houses. All products meet our strict standard of excellence.
We make luxury accessible for all. We are proud to offer only the finest certified vintage and second-hand fashion accessories from the world's most exclusive fashion houses. All products meet our strict standard of excellence.We make luxury accessible for all. We are proud to offer only the finest certified vintage and second-hand fashion accessories from the world's most exclusive fashion houses. All products meet our strict standard of excellence.
Perfect for a black-tie dinner or a weekend city escape, this 1956 Universal Genève brings mid-century charm to the wrist. The 36mm stainless steel case and champagne dial on black leather exude understated elegance, while the bumper automatic movement adds vintage character to business or evening looks—an effortless choice when you want authentic Swiss heritage.
Please note that the majority of our items are vintage and therefore have tales to tell unless stated otherwise. Therefore, please look at pictures, descriptions and measurements provided as they give you the best idea of the story this item has to tell.
* Please note that when you buy a vintage product, the dimensions may vary slightly from a new one depending on previous care and storage.
Q: What is the history behind the Universal Genève Bumper Automatic (1956)? A: This watch is an early execution of the legendary Polerouter (often signed Polarouter in earliest versions), designed by the famous Gérald Genta at age 23. Commissioned by Scandinavian Airlines (SAS) for pilots flying over the North Pole, this specific reference (20217) is historically significant as it houses the early Calibre 138SS "Bumper" movement, which predates the later Microtor models.
Q: What is a "Bumper" automatic movement? A: Unlike modern automatics with a rotor that spins 360 degrees, the Calibre 138SS uses a hammer-style weight that swings in a partial arc, bouncing off buffer springs to wind the mainspring. You may feel a gentle, tactile "thud" or "bump" on your wrist as it winds—a charming characteristic unique to this era of watchmaking.
Q: What are the case dimensions and design features? A: The watch features a 36mm stainless steel case, often referred to as a "Jumbo" size for the 1950s, which wears elegantly on modern wrists. It showcases Gérald Genta’s signature "twisted" or "lyre" lugs, a design element that became iconic for Universal Genève and influenced many later sports watches.
Q: Is the watch water-resistant? A: While originally designed to withstand the rigours of polar flight, water resistance on a 1956 vintage piece cannot be guaranteed. We strongly recommend treating it as splash-proof only and avoiding swimming, showering, or heavy moisture to preserve the dial and movement.
Q: How do I set the time on this model? A: This is a time-only watch, which maintains the perfect symmetry of the champagne dial. Simply pull the crown out gently to the setting position, rotate the gold-tone hands to the desired time, and push the crown back in. There is no date complication to set.
Q: What type of crystal does it use? A: It features a domed acrylic (plexiglass) crystal. This material is historically correct for the 1950s and adds a warm vintage character to the dial. While acrylic can scratch, it can also be easily polished by a watchmaker to remove light marks.
Q: What is the lug width if I want to change the strap? A: This model typically features a 19mm lug width. It comes fitted with a black leather strap, but if you wish to swap it, be sure to source a strap specifically in 19mm, as the more common 18mm or 20mm sizes will not fit the lugs correctly.
Q: Does the dial have luminous material? A: Watches from this period often used Radium or early Tritium for hour markers. Over 70 years, this material loses its glow and develops a patina. We recommend leaving the dial untouched to preserve its original collector value and vintage aesthetic.
Q: What maintenance does the Bumper movement require? A: The Calibre 138SS is robust, but like all vintage mechanical movements, it benefits from regular servicing every 3–5 years. If you hear unusual noises or the watch runs significantly fast or slow, have it inspected by a professional watchmaker familiar with vintage bumper automatics.
Q: Is the "Champagne" dial original? A: The dial has a warm, golden "Champagne" tone. In vintage collecting, this can be an original colour variant or the result of a beautiful, even patina forming on a silver dial over decades. This unique aging process makes each vintage piece truly one-of-a-kind.
SHIPPING
All orders are insured and trackable. Once your shipment has been issued, a link to our Track & Trace service will be provided where you can track your shipment and check delivery status online.
A Retro Tale offers free shipping to most EU countries. Click here to see the full list of eligible countries.
The shipping fee will be clearly shown during the checkout process. In some cases—such as during promotions or depending on your delivery location—shipping costs may vary. If no special rates apply, the standard international shipping fee of $49 will be charged.
We ship all orders from Sweden. Depending on your country’s import regulations, your order may be subject to customs duties, VAT, GST, or other local taxes upon arrival.
These charges are typically collected by the shipping carrier at the time of delivery and are not included in the product price.
We offer secure shipping via DHL and UPS with the following delivery time:
Outside Europe: 3-6 business days.
If you have any questions about customs, duties, or taxes, feel free to contact our customer service team — we’re happy to help!
RETURNS
A Retro Tale offers 14 days return policy upon receipt of your order.
In order to request a return, please email [email protected] with your order number and state ”return request” in your email. From there, our Customer Support will confirm that your return request has been approved and further instructions will be provided by email.
Please note that the return shipping fee is covered by the returnee and all return shippings to A Retro Tale must be traceable. Thus, please retain your receipt of shipping and tracking number until your return has been completed and you have received your refund.
Please allow up to 10 business days for your return to be completed from the return shipping date as shipping time might vary depending on shipping country and shipping provider.
AUTHENTICITY GUARANTEED
A Retro Tale specialises in vintage and pre-owned goods from the world's most loved fashion houses. We guarantee that all of our products are 100 percent authentic. Every item sold on our site undergoes a rigorous authentication process, in which our experts delve deep into the heritage of a brand via its craftsmanship techniques. This requires a rigorous and methodical process.
For us, authentication is about more than expertise; it offers a fascinating insight into the history of fashion and the craftsmanship involved in production.
/ Universal Genève
/ Watches
/ Mens watches
• Stainless steel case, 36mm
• Champagne dial with gold-tone hands
• Bumper automatic movement
• Black leather strap
• Vintage
